By Simon King, chef/proprietor at restaurant 1861 near Abergavenny

Catering over Christmas is hard work, but it can also be fun. My advice is to plan ahead. Make copious lists, and do everything you possibly can well in advance – you’ll be glad you did when the big day arrives.

Of course, it isn’t only one day – there’s Christmas Eve, Boxing Day and the New Year festivities to cook for too. While leftovers might provide a well earned break on Boxing Day, other special seasonal days might require a little more preparation.

I am a big fan of duck. As it’s rich and delicious, it’s ideal for a special occasion. Roast it until the skin is crisp, but the meat still succulent, and it’s sublime. There is a lot of fat in farmed duck, so you will need to drain off the fat halfway through the cooking process if you are roasting a whole duck.

Citrus fruits are a well known accompaniment to duck. But other less obvious fruits partner well too. Cherries, for example, sit very nicely with it.

Duck breasts are full of flavour, but they are a little pricey. Duck legs on the other hand, with a little TLC, are wonderful, and a lot easier on the pocket.

The recipe I’ve included is surprisingly simple, yet punches above its weight. With relatively little effort, and at a reasonable cost, you can create a celebratory dish that is guaranteed to impress your guests.

Some small roast potatoes and a fresh, green salad with go very nicely with this dish – the salad providing a nice, clean contrast to the richness of the meat. Otherwise some seasonal vegetables will be just as nice – it’s your call.

There is no need to make a sauce, as the reduced cooking juices will provide some moistening liquid.

Ballotine of duck with citrus sauce

4 duck legs

100g minced duck

100g minced pork

2 oranges

2 lemons

1 lime

100mls

Double cream

2 eggs beaten

50g dried bread crumbs

200mls duck (or chicken) stock

Pinch of salt and pepper

Grate the zest from the citrus fruits, and mix into the minced pork and duck. Add the eggs and mix thoroughly. Beat in the cream, seasoning and breadcrumbs, until the mix is all combined to make your forcemeat. Remove the thigh bones from the duck legs and trim away any excess fat or sinews.

Open out the duck legs and fill the cavity where the thigh bone was with your forcemeat. Fold the flesh around to reform the leg. Place in a deep baking tray with the juice from the fruit and the duck stock. Cover with a lid or foil and bake in the oven at 140c or gas mark 4 for 1.5 to 2 hours.

Drain off the cooking juices in to a saucepan and reduce over a high heat until reduced by half. Serve with a selection of seasonal vegetables or salad.