The Walnut Tree - Llanddewi Skirrid

8:26am Friday 8th February 2008

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One of Monmouthshire's favourite eateries is back and spruced up, offering 'proper dining and drinking in an informal setting'.

Plenty of people were enticed by this promise on the Saturday lunchtime myself and my partner ate at the Walnut Tree in Llanddewi Skirrid.

A plate of stilton biscuits and wun tun dumplings of goat's cheese and spinach were placed before us.

Both potent and unusual, these appetisers did their job and left us full of hungry anticipation.

I started on a high with smoked haddock boudin with shrimps and dill. The soufflé-like texture of the boudin was delicate and balanced beautifully with the cream and dill.

My partner's hare with papardelle was even better. The nuggets of hare were rich and dark and were complemented by the ribbons of pasta and sumptuous sauce.

My croustade of farmed rabbit was set on a delicate pastry case with a gorgeous cream sauce, however, the rabbit was lacking in taste. Perhaps the farmed meat is not as gamey as wild, but some pieces were more like chicken.

The Mediterranean fish bourride had generous chunks of white fish awash in a subtle and rather wonderful curry-like soup.

We finished with a rich chocolate torte with crème fraîche and a bakewell tart that was gorgeously moist with vanilla ice cream.

The bill came to £70.45 including coffee and drinks which for such high quality is very reasonable.