After more than 30 years of never holidaying in the same place twice, our rule has now been broken for the third year in succession as we find ourselves counting the weeks until we return to Crete.

My first visit to this enchanting island was more than 20 years ago, and while tourism has inevitably made it’s mark, it’s lost none of it’s charm or beauty. The climate is as warm and inviting as the welcome extended to all it’s visitors.

Crete is the largest of the Greek islands and boasts a rich history, according to legend being the birthplace of Zeus, the mightiest of the Olympic Gods.

It’s where the illustrious Minoan Civilization began, and the remains of their imposing palaces in Knossos, Faistos, and Malia are nowadays open to the public.

The island is resplendent with glorious beaches and impressive mountain ranges, but it is the former fishing village of Elounda, to the north-east of the island, that has captured our hearts.

It was the setting for the 1970s televsion drama Who Pays the Ferryman and nowadays a string of colourful bars and restaurants with terraces overlooking the sea, lead to the Ferryman taverna, where much of the action for the series was filmed.

Elounda boasts a number of luxury resort hotels and residents can name a string of famous visitors but this has done little to alter the pace as down by the harbour, fishermen still play with worry beads, and tabby-cats forage in buckets for fish-heads. For us, this is the attraction, for while locals extend the warmest of welcomes, this little town is still happy to go about its business as it has done for centuries.

Life centres around the town square and it’s not unusual to witness a wedding, christening or indeed a funeral at the pretty central church. Bells summon the congregation to Sunday services, and it’s a treat to watch the locals wind their way along the hill paths to their chosen church.

Plaka, a nearby fishing village is a beautiful brisk coastal walk away (definitely not adviseable in the daytime sunshine) the route is lined with luxurious water’s edge villas set alondside traditional Cretan cottages. Once there you find a beautiful pebble beach backed by tamarisk trees, and a handful of tavernas, the first of which regurlarly hangs its daily octupii catch out to dry.

The tiny island of Spinalonga, the former defensive fort and more recently, leper colony, is a powerful draw and boats travel daily from Plaka or Elounda’s pretty harbour.

We were lucky enough to hire our own little boat to make the journey, and while the beauty of the area takes your breath away it’s also extremely humbling to realise that many invalids who made that very same journey to quarantine (until as late as 1957) didn’t came back.

The waters off Elounda are crystal clear and all its beaches carry the EU Blue Flag status making them perfect for swimming, snorkelling and more adventurous water sports.

At night the tranquil sea takes on an almost mystical quality, and there’s nothing more relaxing than finding a taverna with a view, and watching the fishermen come home with their daily catch.

Eating out is one of our pleasures in Elounda, and there are a number of tavernas to choose from to suit all tastes and pockets, our particular favourites Kanali, Olondi and Porto Rino always merit two or three visits.

Cafe Del Mar, so close to the water’s edge that you can see fish feeding, serve excellent ice creams and coffees and Friends bar shouldn’t be missed once cocktail hour comes around.

The towns has all the main amenities, banks, post office, bakery, clinic, pharmacy and pretty shops offering traditional crafts, but my favourite shopping experience is the Friday market. Locals proudly display their crops of fruit and vegetables, and the lines of bottles of olive oil, harvested and pressed during their winter months make a spectacular sight.

Should you miss the market, pickups or vans, variously laden with watermelons, garlic, pots and pans or garden furniture regularly trundle around the island selling their wares.

Where to stay

Elounda boasts the island's highest concentration of exclusive hotels and is regarded as one of the top luxury destinations on the Mediterranean but the beauty for us is the escape to a simpler way of life.

To that end, the Manos apartments set right on the beach, provide the perfect option for us. Giving the freedom to not only come and go as you please, they prove a friendly, well run and spotlessly clean base. With their own inviting pool and well-stocked bar, it’s no surprise that guests return year upon year (in fact whilst sampling a perfect lunchtime Greek salad, and ice-cold Mythos, most, like us, are already planning their return)

Most of the apartments have that elusive sea view, and are roomy and airy with a balcony or terrace. The real pull is the warmth of the welcome, and by day two new visitors are on first name terms with the professional and extremely accomodating staff.

You can only visit the Manos apartments with Thomson, and prices start at £314 from Gatwick and most local airports.