IF you want to eat fine food in a place with unpretentious charm and good service, book your table at The Charthouse Inn, Llanfihangel Gobion, now.

Boasting the best of Italian cuisine in a rural Monmouthshire setting, this restaurant is a foodie's paradise.

You will be warmly welcomed at the bar, and can sip your aperitifs in style as you choose from mouth-watering options on the menu, and order from the supremely efficient staff before you are shown to your table.

There is a comprehensive wine list, a good selection of beers, and, of course, Italian liqueurs with which you can round off your meal.

Starters, priced from around £4.50, include delicate and delicious crab and lobster cakes.

My asparagus, cooked to perfection, was served with shavings of Parmesan cheese and a light salsa sauce.

I chose a light dish of flaky white halibut for my main course, delightfully presented with a pesto and black olive garnish and topped off with a tasty herb crust.

The lobster fettucine was another resounding success - served steaming hot, with a tomato and herb sauce and with a lobster head attractively perched on top, eyeing the other diners.

Even the side vegetables drew praise - light potato croquettes, cauliflower and mushrooms.

Puddings included the staple of Italian restaurants, tiramisu and ice-creams, but I have to confess that our table was too full to contemplate anything other than filter coffees all round, some amaretti biscuits and dark chocolate.

At £25 a head for two courses, two rounds of drinks and coffees, The Charthouse Inn is probably a little too rich for everyday dining.

But it is perfect for special occasions or a relaxed weekend get- together with friends. Maria Williams