Owen Pearce steps into the frenetic and fascinating port city of Hamburg THE cost to transport one bottle of wine from Australia is six cents. Ah, I thought, no wonder a decent Aussie shiraz doesn’t cost the earth.

This little consumer-related fact turned out to be one of many absorbing things I learned on my trip to a truly great city: Hamburg.

As we all know, the Beatles hailed from Liverpool but ‘grew up’ here (so said Mr Lennon) and even today, decades on from the smoke-filled cellar bars of the Swinging Sixties, it’s easy to see how this city of some two million shapes its people.

Hamburg is a major sea port and state capital – and home to probably Europe’s most vibrant ‘alternative’ cultures.

For the city-break tourist, Hamburg can be broken roughly into three parts: the western portside areas of St Pauli and Altona; the centre and lakes by the town hall – a must-see in its own right; and Speicherstadt/Hafen City. There are other districts with their own attractions, but for a short break it is best not to bite off more than one can chew, such is the sheer variety of sights.

Just like fellow port cities such as New York, Cape Town or Glasgow, it is impossible to ignore the influence of the sea. One of the best introductions to Hamburg is to take one of the many boat trips in the River Elbe harbour. There are many trips daily, from the Landungsbruecke, down on the water’s edge in St Pauli.

Our English-commentary tour took us past vast container ships, dry docks, pontoons and as a bonus, the berthed Queen Mary 2 and Queen Elizabeth cruise liners. Here we were told all about the mind-bogglingly large freight ships, including little snippets about all those consumables we import from literally the other side of the world.

As well as looking out over the towering cranes of the docks, my eyes caught Hamburg itself, a skyline dominated not by office blocks, but handsome church spires and sturdy stone buildings which look as though they are eager to watch all the comings and goings in the port.

Now for life onshore. The city centre’s hub is the huge, ornate Rathaus, or town hall, overlooking the Rathausmarkt city square. No matter which way one walks from here, there are chic colonnaded shops and coffee bars, department stores and ice cream parlours.

And just off the north-eastern corner of the square is more water – the Alster, a spectacular urban lake. Here one can sit on the terraced banks and sip a beer, often to live music on a waterside stage.

For culture vultures, don’t miss the main city art museum, the Hamburg Kunsthalle. Here you can view important German, French, Dutch and Flemish works, including examples by Albrecht Duerer, Caspar David Friedrich and Lovis Corinth,as well as 20th century works by Pablo Picasso, Paul Klee and Max Beckmann.

For something less high-brow but mightily impressive, point your feet to the waterside development area at Hafen City.

Housed in part of the world’s largest warehouse district, the brick-built Speicherstadt, is Miniatur Wunderland, or miniature wonderland. Young and old alike will be thrilled by the 12 kilometres (yes!) of model railway tracks and the attraction’s statheavy sights: 890 trains, 300,000 lights, 215,000 trees and 200,000 human figures. You’ll find an airport, docks, Alpine mountains, a football stadium, the Las Vegas Strip, and much more.

Back outdoors, no adult trip to Hamburg would be complete without a trip to the infamous red-light district, the Reeperbahn, close to the St Pauli football ground. What a sight. I can certainly recommend sitting outside one of the many bars – just to sip a cold locally-brewed Astra beer and gawp at all manner of mankind doing (or at least thinking about) all manner of things… Want to do as Hamburgers do?

Whatever your excesses of the Saturday night before, the ‘Fischmarkt’ Sunday morning market at the Fish Auction Hall, down on the St Pauli waterfront ten minutes’ walk from the Landungsbruecke is a must. Join the crowd of people and stall after stall overflowing with juicy fruit, fresh breads, meat, fish and more. Grab yourself a herring or shrimp roll and eat as you lap up the atmosphere. Save the best until last – the auction hall itself.

Under its iron arches are live rock bands and beer tents and benches one shares with all and sundry. Quaff a sparkling wine as locals and tourists alike dance the morning away (yes, it’s about 10.30am by now) to some pretty decent cover version bands.

Being a major port, Hamburg offers just about any cuisine. Thanks to the large Turkish immigrant population, the chance of landing a healthy lean kebab with mouth-watering salads is easy. Try the Tandur or Mr Kebab in St Pauli. Good value, too. For hearty German food, including local herring specialities which go down a treat with a cold wheatbeer or a crisp riesling, head for the Thaemers on the pleasant, leafy, Grossneumarkt square.

With a nod to the city’s Beatles links, Hamburg is also a mecca for music fans. Whether it’s opera, jazz or rock, there’s somewhere in town for you – look at the advert retros on the streets for all the latest flyers. It’s feasible to see major headline acts at the bigger arenas one night and local cult bands like KMFDM or Mono Inc the next at smaller, central venues like the Markthalle, a drumstick’s throw from the main station.

To sum up, a smashing city, best suited to those who like to see and do, rather than sit back and relax.

 

Five things to do

1.Take a boat trip. Haven: The bigger container ships are an awesome sight.Also, if you're lucky you'll see the likes of the Queen Mary 2 plus a good view of the city skyline.Alster: A picturesque lake lined with trees, handsome shops and villas.

2.The bars and clubs. Hamburg, and especially districts like St Pauli, is the place to catch a live gig. Check the flyers, book your tickets and join the fun.

3. People-watch at the Reeperbahn.The good, the bad and the downright weird – all undeniably fascinating.

4.The Speicherstadt and Hafen City.Gaze at the 19th century warehouses, the ships and enjoy the big kid in you at the Miniatur Wunderland. Also home to the superb Maritime Museum and the Hamburg Dungeon.

5.The Sunday morning market and live music at the fish auction hall. One big party where the beer and sparkling wine flows – all before noon.

 

Getting there

The tricky bit. It’s a long drive from the Channel ports and not feasible for a short break. For a long weekend it’s best to fly direct to Hamburg from London Heathrow. BA, Lufthansa and airberlin all fly here.

• Tip: Buy unlimited travel in the city and discounts at many sights and museums with a HamburgCARD - see www.hamburg-tourism.de/en