NO matter who you are and to what level of grandeur you may be accustomed, the first sight of Llangoed Hall, deep in the heart of the Black Mountains, is likely to take your breath away.

Once known as Llangoed Castle, the stately home is set in 17 acres of immaculate gardens in the Wye Valley, nestled between the towns of Brecon and Hay-on-Wye. The house itself, the eldest part of it dating back to 1632, was in danger of demolition in the early 1970s and saved only because of its historical and architectural importance. It's believed there has been a house on this site since 560 AD and that the first Welsh parliament was held here.

In 1987 Sir Bernard Ashley bought the property, reflecting the last wish of his wife, the late Laura Ashley, and restored the hall to its former glory.

Now one of the finest hotels in Wales, this luxury country house is home to many pieces of Sir Bernard's impressive art collection.

Thanks to the grandeur of the forecourt encountered on first arrival, all locally dressed stone and climbing ivy, and the building's striking interiors with its wooden floors, visitors are initially tempted to tread softly around Llangoed Hall as if it were a museum, respectfully keeping their voices to no more than a whisper.

But the disarmingly friendly welcome of house staff quickly makes such self-consciousness a fading memory, leaving visitors feeling indulged and immaculately taken care of.

Attention to detail is everything at Llangoed Hall so visitors staying a full weekend, or even just popping in for a wonderful afternoon tea, cannot fail to be impressed by their experience.

The 23 bedrooms, each one individually themed and kitted out with fabrics by Elanbach, Sir Bernard's textile printing business located in a custom-built studio within the grounds, provide a range of accommodation from suites to four-poster beds to deluxe doubles. The room I stayed in with my partner Deborah was wonderfully large, with a luxury bathroom and a view of the snow-capped mountains beyond the hall's croquet lawn. During cold months both lounges have crackling log fires constantly on the go, so visitors can warm themselves as they read their newspapers or play one of the beautiful pianos. Those who hoped for some time outdoors and are not satisfied with a stroll around the apple orchard or finding their way out of the maze within the gardens, can opt for a two-hour river walk which staff will happily prepare them for.

For me though, as ever, the proof of the pudding was literally in the eating. Having read that Llangoed Hall is noted for its stunning food and exceptional wine list, I was prepared for something special and was not disappointed. Both dinner and breakfast are fairly pricey but one walks away knowing one has just experienced superb value. Dinner began with drinks and canapes before the fire. There we ordered our starters and main courses. By the time Deborah and I were 'invited' to dine, a complimentary mushroom cappuccino had been prepared for us both.

I started with the roast plum tomato tart with a toasted French goat's cheese and basil vinaigrette while Deborah enjoyed a dill and lemon scented blini with fresh salmon tartare and crme fraiche and caviar.

For the main course, my assiette of local Welsh lamb with juniper berry sauce came with wild mushrooms wrapped in dressed spinach leaves and beautifully roasted vegetables. Deborah chose the Welsh black beef fillet on a fresh horseradish mash, topped with a braised oxtail ravioli and a red wine sauce.

Between courses we were brought gin and tonic- flavoured sorbets with hard caramel lattices to clear our palates. We also enjoyed a fine bottle of house red to complement our meals.

The full Welsh breakfast the following morning was as delicious, and more than enough to set us up for the best part of a day wandering around the nearby Brecon Beacons. Llangoed Hall specialises in hosting conferences and weddings. But it also provides a wonderful holiday for couples and groups with nothing more to celebrate than sheer indulgence.