WAITROSE Abergavenny fish counter assistant Brett Kelly is holding aloft the product of a four-year programme to transform standards in the salmon farming industry.

Attempting to stock the best fish is one of the ways that the supermarket hopes to distinguish itself from its competitors.

The Abergavenny store is one of 19 former Safeways outlets acquired by Waitrose from Morrisons.

Led by fish buyer Jeremy Langley, Waitrose has entered a long- term partnership with its Orkney Islands suppliers to rewrite the book on fish farming.

Called the Waitrose Select Salmon Farm Scheme, the work has led to an 80-page code of practice. The scheme has been endorsed by the Soil Association and other environmental groups and the company believes it's the best of its type worldwide.

The farms include both organic and non-organic salmon rearing, although the high standards being achie-ved make the differences between the two approaches minimal.

The heart of the project lies in the locally-produced fish pellets which are fed to the salmon every day.

The company claims that only natural ingredients are included such as fish meal, fish oils, vegetable oils and essential vitamins and minerals. After food, the most significant factor in the industry is location.

The Orkneys surround a huge natural harbour known as Scapa Flow. Historians and old sea dogs know the area as the wartime home of the British fleet and the spot where the German fleet was scuppered at the end of the First World War.

Scapa Flow is characterised by powerful sea currents which make it ideal for salmon farming.

Mr Langley said: "Salmon farming is a young industry and mistakes have been made along the way which have led to criticism - some justified and some not.

"One of the problems in the past was the location of salmon pens in calm waters with little or no tidal scouring.

"The currents in Scapa Flow create a superb environment for the fish, keeping them clean and healthy and forcing them to use their muscles to maintain their position.

"This leads to a more muscular fish which tastes better on the plate. Our goal is to have our farmed salmon looking and tasting as good as the wild varieties."