The Bell, Skenfrith

Tucked away on the banks of the River Monnow on the border between Monmouthshire and Herefordshire is an example of that rare treat - a traditional Welsh coaching inn.

The Bell, pictured, was refurbished and opened in its present incarnation in March this year by William and Janet Hutchings and is one of the few Welsh Tourist Board five-star inns in Wales. It's easy to see why this accolade has been granted.

A roaring fire and photographs of long-past villagers set the scene, further enhanced by a wide choice when asking for a glass of red wine.

For starters, we had home-cured gravadlax with dill mustard sauce (£5.65) and asparagus salad with herbed feta (£5.75). Both were attractively presented and perfect appetisers.

Our main courses were roast turkey with all the trimmings (£10.70) and Thai green chicken curry with aubergine, coconut, basil and rice (£11.50). The turkey was served in that interesting, piled-up way that top restaurants delight in and the curry had a subtle, spicey-without-being-hot flavour.

For desert we both had Christmas pudding ice cream with star anise and pear sauce (£4.50) which, quite simply, was to die for.

The service was friendly and efficient and all the ingredients are locally sourced except for the fish, which comes fresh from Cornwall, and the butter (French - it's a chef thing!).

The restaurants themselves - there are two, the bar area and a separate, slightly more formal one - are comfortably laid out and there is plenty of room between tables. So, no staff squeezing past the back of your chair and the opportunity to have a good conversation.

The meal came to just over £46, excluding wine, which while not cheap is not expensive either.

The only drawback is the travelling distance - the Bell is on the B4521 between Abergavenny and Ross-on-Wye. But then, that gives you the chance to make the evening really special and stay the night in one of the inn's eight bedrooms.

All in all, well worth a visit.