Game on says Simon King, chef proprietor at restaurant 1861 near Abergavenny.

The game season is underway, and there’s treasure trove of goodies to choose from: pheasant, grouse, venison, mallard and partridge. Game meat is full of flavour, and is naturally lean, and, as there is always a ‘closed season’, you can’t get game all year round, so it’s something of a treat.

Pheasant works very well if it’s casseroled in red wine, cooked nice and slow to make sure that the meat is tender. It can also be roasted, and, like roast chicken, it is delicious with bread sauce.

A favourite of mine is venison. Choose your cut according to what you want to do with it. A whole fillet or the saddle or haunch are great for roasting.

Cheaper cuts make a delicious stew, which can be slow cooked in the oven until meltingly tender. Such a stew benefits from a splash of red wine or port to add depth of flavour to the meat; and a hint of juniper adds a slightly exotic touch.

To keep costs down, why not slow cook some jacket potatoes while the oven is on anyway. Alternatively, a rich, creamy mash with some grated nutmeg is the perfect comforter for colder weather. Seasonal greens and some red cabbage add colour to the plate, which makes the meal look particularly appetising.

Braised shoulder of venison, scented with juniper

1kg diced shoulder of venison

375mls red wine

1 litre reduced venison or beef stock

3 large carrots diced

3 large onions diced

4 cloves of garlic

Tablespoon juniper berries, crushed

Method

Fry the venison and vegetables until golden brown on all sides, drain excess fat through a colander.

Boil the wine and reduce by half, add the stock, and bring to the boil, then add the seared venison and vegetables, bring the whole mixture back to the boil and add the juniper.

Place in a medium oven at 140c or gas mark 3 for approx two – three hours, or until tender.

Drain the meat from the sauce, bring the sauce to the boil and reduce until you reach a thicker consistency, return the meat to the sauce and season. Serve with a selection of seasonal vegetables and new potatoes, a jacket potato or mash.