THE Three Blackbirds at Llantarnam, Cwmbranseems the perfect village pub, with its winding stone steps, wooden panels and horse brasses.

Diners only realise that this place is somewhat schizophrenic when they hear the R&B soundtrack to which people eat their meals.

Then take a glance at the menu - which has the sort of food which used to be served up on every dining table across Britain sitting cheek-by-jowl with Mediterranean fare.

The dish I chose said it all - bubble and squeak topped with roasted Mediterranean vegetables.

Each in their parts was wonderful, particularly the fluffy bubble and squeak. As a combination? I'm not so sure.

My companion's choice - a steak and ale pie served with peas and chips - had a perfect crust of pastry, tasty steak and just a hint of the beer in which it had been steeped.

It was the best of British food - something this pub's restaurant does very well - and a good antidote to fussy menus found in some other venues.

The Three Blackbirds has a good range of British classics such as steaks, fish and chips. On the more Mediterranean side, there is a spinach and ricotta lasagne to die for, and for a lighter lunchtime bite, ciabatta with a wide choice of fillings.

The place is also great value for money. Main courses start at just over £6, and our two main course meals and drinks came to under £15.

There is also a range of reasonably-priced puddings, and when I visited, good offers on bottles of South African wines and a special lunchtime menu. This is a place a family could afford to frequent on a regular basis. It is at its best when it serves the finest of our traditional food and doesn't try the sun-dried tomato culture of a trattoria. Maria Williams