The Cutting Edge Cardiff Bay Tel: 02920 470780

THERE is no shortage of smart bars and restaurants at Cardiff Bay these days, but even among the chrome and wood-floored flock the Cutting Edge stands out.

It's ultra minimalist, with a large window overlooking the waterfront along one side.

Opposite the National Assembly for Wales building, the restaurant is popular with politicos, especially at weekday lunchtimes. In the evenings, though, the clientele is much more mainstream.

And it's easy to see why it's popular with such varied customers. It's comfortable and airy and the staff deliver a breezy and very efficient service.

More important, the food is reliably very good and while it's certainly on the special occasion list for most of us, it doesn't hit the stratospheric pricing of some city eateries.

We started with Thai fish cakes with sweet chilli sauce, and warm goats' cheese ragout of seafood with beetroot. I say 'we' because as usual we both had at least a taste of everything.

The fish cakes were perfectly textured and flavoured with a modest kick from the chilli sauce. Goats' cheese rarely disappoints, and here the accompaniments married pleasingly.

Our main courses were fillet of beef with dauphinoise potato, red wine and shallot sauce, and ragout of seafood with rouille bruschetta.

It's not often the word 'best' features in review vocabulary, but the melt-in-the-mouth beef was certainly the best I can recall. The fish ragout - particularly the sea bass - was outstanding.

We finished with an extravagantly flavoured compote of strawberries, home-made honey ice cream and chocolate and a generous selection of cheeses - for which I am always grateful.

The price, including side dishes of green vegetables and chips and a bottle of Cahors, was £69.85.