Phoenix Garden, High Street, Caerleon

IT'S easy enough for even an average restaurant to be full come the weekend.

But they can really be judged on the number of spare tables available on a "school night".

In which case Phoenix Gardens has no problems - the place was packed on the Tuesday evening we visited, even in an area where there is a relatively high density of restaurants, so one imagines it is bookings-only come the busy weekends. Its secret is in its simplicity. The dishes are generally straightforward enough but nonetheless delicious, and there is still plenty here for the more adventurous. You can choose from a wide range of individual dishes or from four set menus, one of them vegetarian, for a minimum of two people (priced between £14 and £18 a head).

My wife and I opted for individual dishes. I chose sesame prawns on toast for my starter (£5), which were beautifully succulent and soft, while my wife went for crispy lamb with lettuce and hoi sin sauce (£8). The fact she didn't allow me to try any indicated it was a good choice.

For my main course, I enjoyed sweet and sour chicken (£7), which arrived in a light and crispy batter, rather than a stodgy coating, with egg fried rice (£2.50), which was perfectly cooked.

My wife chose Szechuan chicken (£7) and special fried rice (£4).

This time I was permitted a taste, not because it wasn't good, but because the portion was so generous it defeated her.

The bill, with two Tiger beers to complement our meal, came to £38.50.

This restaurant is well-priced and offers good food. Just make sure you book in good time.